The Art of Bartending
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The Alchemist's articles
The following articles were written by Paul Harrington, The Alchemist at the Hotwired website
- Slang from the Sober Side of the Bar
- Mixed Drinks vs. Cocktails
- The Manners of the Bar: How to Bring Them back
Testing the Bartender
The following articles were written by Robert Hess, creator of the drinkboy.com website.:
Slang from the "sober side of the bar": Paul Harrinton, The Alchemist at HotWired's site
Thanks to unsavory drinks like Sex on the Beach and Slow Comfortable Screw, bartenders in typically fine drinking establishments often refer to their own vantage as "the sober side of the bar." Like the soda jerks of the '20s who coined "eighty-six," bartenders have created and appropriated terms for their trade. When used correctly by imbibers, these words reveal people who know how to order exactly what they want. But when spouted off by nescient fops, they irk like a Francophile's fake accent and poor usage.
"Neat" is the most common of these terms. People who've learned their bar diction from James Bond and other Hollywood heroes use this word interchangeably with "up." But for the record, neat means a liquor is served unmixed and undiluted. In other words, the beverage is poured straight from its bottle or decanter into a glass with no ice.
Wine is a good example of a drink best sipped neat. You would never order a Martini neat, unless you just wanted Martini & Rossi vermouth in a glass. You could order gin neat, though I wouldn't. Vodka, however, is ideal neat.
Neat doesn't necessarily mean warm. A bottle of vodka, for instance, can spend its life in the freezer, making appearances only at the outset of meals featuring borscht. Other liquors commonly served neat are cognac in a snifter; whiskey in a tumbler; tequila in a tumbler, chased by a lime wedge; and a cordial in a pony.
"Up," on the other hand, implies that some mixology should take place. Usually, the bartender will stir or shake the beverage with ice and strain it into a stemmed glass. These drinks should never contain ice. True cocktails, like Martinis and Manhattans, are tastiest served this way.
The alternative to ordering a cocktail up is requesting it "on the rocks." Typically, someone who orders a drink this way wants a spirit slightly diluted and plans to linger over it longer than the typical cocktail drinker. A drink served on the rocks is prepared like one served up, except it's strained into a tumbler of ice. Cocktails served on the rocks are for quenching thirst, while those served up encourage appetites.
"Over" describes one of the most relaxing concoctions ever - a drink of one or two spirits poured directly into a glass filled with ice. The spirits aren't chilled beforehand, and as whiskey connoisseurs will attest, this serving type seems to flavor the ice. When served promptly, the first sip of an over tastes strong, as if straight. After a few seconds, though, the ice melts a bit, and the spirit becomes refreshing.
The Scottish dictum that whiskey should never touch water applies only to true scotch (probably served at the small single-malt joint in town that everyone overlooks) - not the Johnnie Walker-like blends popular in the United States. Bar etiquette dictates that the tumbler in which an over was served should not be cleared from the table or bar until the patron offers it. Even when another round has been ordered, most over drinkers will want it poured into their current glass, rather than toss their well-flavored ice.
Ordering vodka over - though common - is ridiculous, because you only receive a spirit at a lower proof, not flavorful ice. Vodka lovers may be miffed by this view, but the reality is that only distinctive spirits will flavor ice, and vodka - because of its distillation - is too pure to be distinctive.
Very similar to a drink served over is a "mist." In fact, the only difference is the type of ice used: A mist uses shaved or crushed ice, while an over uses cubes. Drinks ordered as mists are much colder than beverages served on the rocks or over, because more of the ice's surface area touches the spirit. Mists are perfect for hot summer afternoons, as every sip brings with it small, refreshing chips of ice. I suspect the mist inspired the inventor of the snow cone.
These drink nuances make all the difference to those who notice them. (It's like specifying how you want your steak cooked.) There are hundreds of other words in the lingua franca of bartending, but the terms here are the most important (though understanding the meaning of sling, frappÈ, float, or fizz would be helpful also). Next time you're a camper ordering a spacer for yourself and (unknowingly) a placebo for the bartender, rest assured that with these key terms, you'll actually get what you think you ordered.
Mixed Drinks vs. Cocktails (Paul Harrinton, The Alchemist at HotWired's site)
Mixed drinks are often mistaken for cocktails. We blame liquor marketers for this faux pas, though admit that the definition of a classic cocktail also adds to the confusion.
A mixed drink is usually a single spirit combined with fruit juice served over ice in a tumbler. Mixed drinks usually try to hide the alcohol taste behind a mixer and are often served with a straw or swizzle stick. The screwdriver is a mixed drink.
The cocktail, by contrast, is more refined, contains more ingredients, and requires higher levels of preparation and presentation. (Which is why on airplanes you can order mixed drinks but not cocktails.) A cocktail usually calls for fresh fruit, bitters, and a sweetener, as opposed to a mixed drink, which simply requires juice. A cocktail is usually flash-chilled [665k .mov] and should be sipped briskly. It is small, clean, and compact.
The term "mixed drink" hails from the '70s and, much like that decade, it's gauche - occasionally in a good way. Mixed drinks referencing any sexual act are always best avoided. These mixed drinks are crass, often acting as props that you carry around with you in a bar as a conversation starter. A cocktail, by comparison, sits with you at your table and speaks volumes about your taste and the company you keep.
The Manners of the Bar (how to bring them back): Paul Harrinton, The Alchemist at HotWired's site
For the novice mixer, the huge number of available drink recipes can be daunting. Usually a rookie will go with the familiar, mixing the same cocktail for every situation. Of course, we all have our favorites, but not every cocktail suits every occasion. Besides, your guests will appreciate a little variety. Fear of the unknown can be easily overcome, if you remember that there are four main drink families. These timeless classics - Sidecars, Manhattans, Old Fashioneds, and Mojitos - are the cornerstones on which to build your repertoire. All other drinks are merely variations on one of these four fundamental themes. If you can master these simple drinks, you can mix anything.
The witty
When making Sidecar-type cocktails, stick to the proper proportions. You'll recognize drinks in this family by their mathematical formula: sweet + sour = strong. These drinks are crisp in flavor and brisk in temperature. The base alcohol should be present in the flavor, while the sweetness slightly eases the sour tang of these drinks. Add too much citrus, and the drinker's digestive tract will feel the acid. If the drink's overly sweet, it'll coat the inside of your mouth like a lollipop. This drink family, which includes the Daiquiri, the Cosmopolitan, and the Aviation, quenches thirst while sparking both mind and mouth. Almost anybody can relate to the pleasure of a Margarita in the late afternoon after a long day at the beach.
The sublime
Manhattans and Martinis have relied on image to survive. They are the sleekest of all cocktails, which makes them stand out in the crowd. But, remember, looks aren't everything. Sublime in nature, cocktails of this class rely heavily on the sensitivity and imagination of their creator, and the base ingredient is key (in fact, it's this family's telltale trait). Don't request one at a bar unless your host's credentials have been tested first.
Over Thanksgiving, my nephew commented that a Manhattan is not really a mixed drink, but a double shot of rye. Even after carefully crafting my response to his youthful quip, I found it difficult to convey to him the magical transformation alcohol makes when poured over arctic ice and treated with proper care. Each liquor obviously has its own alcoholic content, but beyond that, each subtle mix creates a flavor altogether unique. I'm often stumped as to why good mixologists can create fanciful martinis with well gin, whereas amateurs can't mix their way out of a bathtub with Sapphire. (Insecure bartenders, in fact, attempt to set their Martinis apart from the mundane gin straight-up by adding only the slightest amount of vermouth.)
The nearly forgotten
Old Fashioneds, for you sticklers for detail, are not cocktails at all. Many people think of the rye variation of this mixed drink as a sweet Manhattan on the rocks, a drink it closely resembles. The novice bartender always gets this family confused with the Manhattans and Martinis. Remember, this family is short and squat, with lots of ice, and usually with some fruit. Sadly, few drinks from this category have survived. Nowadays, the Rusty Nail, a scotch-based cousin to the once-popular Old Fashioned, is the most often ordered. If you enjoy vodka on the rocks, I suggest experimenting with fruit and infused vodka to create an original. Just remember to macerate gently, and never skimp on ice.
The sensual
I expect the Mojito surprised you with its light taste and look. I've always found it to be the most refreshing potion. A marriage between the julep and the Rickey, this drink excels in presentation and sensation. The Mojito falls under the general classification of a tall drink. The best tall drinks are merely adequately prepared cocktails, poured over ice, and topped with the freshest soda you can find. As the tiny carbon bubbles are released, they aid the citrus in dusting a dry mouth. If added sweetness or a bit of spice is desired, Seven-Up or a good ginger ale may be added to these tall ones, as in the case of a Buck or a Collins. When it comes to glasses, the taller and thinner, the better. The smaller opening keeps the CO2 from dissipating too quickly. If you are entertaining a school of fish that's keeping you behind the bar all night, turn their cocktails into the tall version; the added liquid will slow them down.
Passing The Test by Robert Hess
Finding A Touchstone
When you have a bar and a bartender that you really know well, you feel comfortable and safe. You know what sorts of drinks that they make well, and you know what to order. But what if you find yourself in a new bar, and you want to find out what sort of place this is, and how well they make their drinks. Is this the sort of place that you'd better just stick with a Gin & Tonic? Or can you trust them to not only make some of your favorite drinks properly, but perhaps to even be able to recommend some new drinks that suit your tastes?
As part of my research, I try to go to as many different cocktail bars as possible. Anytime I hear of a new bar opening up in Seattle, I make it a point to go check them out. There are a broad number of things I am looking for in a Quality bar. In addition to just straight forward qualitative observations, I have also developed a short set of tests that I run a first-time bartender through in order to get a quick idea about their abilities and knowledge. In the upcoming series of articles, I'll cover these tests one at a time, and include a detailed explanation of how I arrived at this test, and what I am looking for.
Test #1: Making A Cocktail
As a first test, I want to find out pure and simply how much attention the bartender has paid to learning how to make "a" cocktail well. The cocktail needs to be one that is common enough to be relatively well known, but no so common that it has evolved to a point that almost any recipe is correct. It also needs to be one that has some specific complexities of design and flavor that take some skill and understanding to execute properly. This would mean that a cocktail like the Martini would not be a good choice.
It is probably just by chance that I settled in on the Old Fashioned cocktail as the one that I use for testing bartenders with. I suppose that there are several others that I could have used, but I've come to realize that the Old Fashioned really works well for finding out how much attention a bartender really pays to the drinks they make.
The Old Fashioned was one of the first cocktails that I taught myself how to make when I got started down this path. So many recipes just list the ingredients and a very general description of how to combine them together, if at all. So while it might sound trivial to teach yourself such a simple drink as the Old Fashioned, to do it properly means carefully thinking through what each of the ingredients are adding to the drink, and what process of putting them together brings out the best characteristics.
As I settled in on my recipe I found that I had grown very fond of this drink. Prior to this, it had been a cocktail I knew the name of but really hadn't ever ordered it in a bar. So on my next foray out to the bars of Seattle, I found myself ordering an Old Fashioned. Wham! Suddenly the harsh reality of the bartender's skill slapped me in the face. I found that I was being served a drink that bore little resemblance to the wonderful drink that I had grown accustomed to. Perhaps it was just this one bar. It was one I had never been to before, and so perhaps I needed to go find a better one. But one after another, I found that no matter what bar I would try, none of them would make this drink as good as mine. Many were good, but not great. But most, and I do mean most, were horrid.
These guys were professionals. I was just a hobbyist. They had often been working for years learning how to make cocktails. I was just messing around. So what did they know that I didn't? Was the drink I was making myself not really an Old Fashioned? I paid attention to how they were making it. The primary difference between theirs and mine was the addition of soda water. Most of the time, their Old Fashioneds were made up of half soda water. To my tastes, the more soda water they had, the worse they were. I scoured through any cocktail recipe book I could find, and none of them indicated this much soda water. At most, they would mention a "splash" of either water, or soda. Even the Angostura bitters bottle indicated that the water was only being added to help dissolve the sugar.
On my next trip out I made it a point to sit at the bar near where the bartender mixed up his drinks. I ordered an Old Fashioned, and he of course topped it off with a healthy dose of Soda. As I sipped this horrid concoction, I casually asked the bartender what the purpose of the soda in an Old Fashioned was. "I don't know" was the response, "that"s just the way I was taught how to make it."
Which is when the light bulb came on for me.
The difference between the bartender, and me was that for him it was just a job. For me, it was a passion. He was just trying to mix up cocktails as quickly and efficiently as possible, with little care or concern as to what might really make them great. He could just as easily have been flipping burgers at a hamburger joint.
So, I had discovered a touchstone. I had found a test by which I could measure a bartenders understanding and interest in Quality cocktail. And it was a test that I should expect most bartenders to fail. One of my earliest successes with this test was at "Mona's", a little restaurant in North Seattle. I dropped in and ask the bartender for an Old Fashioned. He looked at me and rather matter of factly warned me that it might not be what I was used to, because he made his the right way. And he did.
And one of my most recent successes was just the other night at a new little cafÈ in downtown Seattle, the "Zig Zag CafÈ". Another bartender had told me that they claimed to really know their cocktails, so I decided that they were due a visit. Not only did they know their stuff. But in making the Old Fashioned, they used simple syrup instead of sugar, just so that they could both avoid adding any water to this drink, as well as making sure that the sugar got fully dissolved.
This is what it is all about. Finding bars and bartenders that take pride in the cocktails they serve. For me, I have found that an Old Fashioned is a good way to separate the true professionals from the rank amateurs. There are other cocktails that could be used to check out different levels of appreciation and ability. The Sidecar could be used to determine both their interest in using quality ingredients, as well as their knowledge of how to properly balance the flavors. The Manhattan could be used to determine if they truly understand the importance of bitters in a cocktail. And even something as trendy as a Lemon Drop could be used to find out if they simply try to follow everybody else's lead, or if they really understand the alchemy behind bartending.
The Passion by Robert Hess
The Passion of a True Bartender
A great bartender is not just their knowledge of spirits, or their ability to commit to memory a thousand different cocktails. One of the key things that separate a "bottle jockey" from a "mixologist" is the passion and the enthusiasm that they have for their endeavors. A pride in their abilities that is capable of infecting their customers. As my second test that I present to a new bartender, I focus on how to quickly identify how dedicated they are to their chosen career.
Test # 2: A Personal Specialty
A true craftsman will always have something that they know they can do exceptionally well. An artist may specialize in painting hands, a landscaper may do amazing things with topiary, a chef may prove themselves with shellfish, and likewise a true bartender will have a handful of drinks that are exceptionally proud of.
While I can excuse a bartender for not knowing the correct way to make an Old Fashioned, I am far less forgiving for a bartender who shows no passion, no focus. For my second test, I will always ask a bartender what their "personal specialty" is. This is my way of asking a bartender to prove to me that they deserve that title.
When I ask a bartender about their personal specialty, I want to see their eyes light up, I want them to carefully look me over to determine which of their various drinks might suit me best. I want them to feel challenged as well as recognized. Unfortunately, far too often the result is a blank stare or a response that proves their lack of ability.
Here are some of the sad responses I often receive to this question, and what I interpret such a response to really mean:
"How about a Cosmopolitan?"
This bartender doesn't have a clue as to what is good. They are simply pushing the "trendy" cocktail in that area. Perhaps it isn't the Cosmo in specific that they recommend, but chances are that any recommendation that starts out with "How about aœ" is simply a recommendation for the cocktail that they make the most of. Hey, if everybody else is drinking it, it must be good, right?
"I make a really good Martini"
So what. You probably make it just with gin (or vodka), shaken and then strained. How hard could that be? The biggest challenge you face is simply pouring enough spirit into the shaker to make a full glass. While a Martini can be made really well, it is rarely done so by somebody who simply tosses a statement like this out. If the bartender truly understands the art of the Martini, and wants to make one for you, he will embark upon a conversation with you to help you understand how he plans to make it. It should almost seem to be a test that he is applying to you, in order to discover if you are a worthy candidate for such a cocktail.
"I don't have a specialty, all the cocktails I make are good."
Yeah, right. Then why did your Old Fashioned taste like swamp water? This is a sure sign of somebody that likes to think they are a good bartender simply because they've memorized all the recipes in the "Mr. Boston's" recipe book.
"I don't think I have one."
Ok, perhaps an honest response, but in that case what the heck are you doing working as a bartender? I get this response far too often. And I'll then follow up by asking them what their own favorite cocktail is, hoping that if they have a cocktail they like drinking themselves, they'll be able to make it pretty good. Unfortunately, the most common response to that question is "I don't normally drink cocktails, I usually just drink beer." There is nothing wrong with enjoying beer, or wine, or drinking spirits straight. But for a bartender to not really be able to appreciate the product they are producing, then chances are good that any cocktail they make is just going to be mediocre.
I think this particular test, more then any other that I inflict, attempts to identify the bartenders that treat their craft the same as well trained chef approaches their cuisine. A True Bartender is very much like a chef. A chef doesn't just cook from a recipe; they cook from the heart. They have a deep understanding of the ingredients they are using and how they interact with one another. Likewise, a bartender should understand the nuances of the ingredients they use and be able to fine tune a recipe until it sings.
All of this is not to say that every bartender needs to be an "artist" at his or her craft. There's plenty of room for dive bars and hack bartenders. The problem is that there are bars out there that "think" they are upscale just because of the trappings that they surround themselves in, or the restaurant that they are associated with. But they fail to realize that without true bartenders that can breath the life into that empty shell, they are little more then a glorified Denny's.
Drink Recipes:
Cocktail Glass 
High Ball
Rocks Glass/Tumbler 
Flute
Aviation Cocktail
- 1 1/2 ounces gin
- 1 ounce lemon juice
- 1/4 ounce maraschino liqueur
Shake with cracked ice; strain into chilled cocktail glass. Variation: Substitute Absolut Citron for gin.
Buck's
- 3 ounces gin
- 1/2 ounce lemon or lime juice
Shake with cracked ice; strain into chilled Collins glass; top with gingerale.Variation: Substitute rum, vodka, brandy, or whiskey for gin.
Champagne
Cocktail
According to Paul Harrington: "The earliest reference to this drink in goes back to the Gentleman's Companion of 1939. But we know that the Champagne Cocktail was named one of the 10 best cocktails of 1934 by Esquire magazine, and we've found hints of other references taking this cocktail back to the early 19th century."
- 6 ounces champagne
- 1 sugar cube
- Angostura bitters
Soak sugar cube with Angostura bitters. Place cube in bottom of champagne flute. Fill with champagne. Garnish with a twist.
Collins
- 2 ounces gin
- 1 ounce lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon superfine sugar
- 2 ounces soda water
Shake ingredients with cracked ice; strain into a Collins glass filled with ice. Top with soda and garnish with a cherry and orange wheel.
Cosmopolitan
- 2 ounces vodka (Absolut Citron)
- 2 ounces cranberry juice (from a concentrate)
- 1 ounce lime juice (or Rose's lime juice if you're at a dive bar)
- 3/4 ounce Cointreau (or Triple Sec)
Stir vodka Cointreau, and juices with ice; strain into a chilled tumbler filled with ice. Add a swizzle stick and serve.
Daiquiri
- 2 ounces light rum
- 1 ounce lime juice
- 1 teaspoon sugar
Shake well with cracked ice; strain into chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a slice of lime. Never, never use Rose's lime juice in this drink.
Lemon Drop
Supposedly invented in the winter of 1969 when San Francisco became home to the world's first - or at least best-known - fern bar, Henry Africa's, which pushed pushed so-called "girl drinks": potent mixed drinks sweet enough to mask the taste of alcohol.
- 1 1/2 ounces citron vodka
- 3/4 ounce lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon sugar
Shake with ice. Strain into a frosted cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon wheel. Variation: Add 1/4 ounce Cointreau and use only 1/2 teaspoon of sugar.
The Manhattan
The Manhattan is a very old cocktail, most likely having been invented in the 1870's at New York's Manhattan Club from which it gets its name.
- 2 ounces rye or bourbon whiskey
- 1/2 ounce sweet vermouth
- 1 dash of Angostura bitters
Stir with ice. Strain into a cocktail glass. You can also use bourbon instead of rye.
Margarita
- 1 1/2 ounces tequila
- 1 ounce Cointreau
- 1 ounce lemon juice 1 ounce lime juice
Shake with cracked ice; strain into prepared cocktail glass (moisten rim of chilled cocktail glass with a lime and dip into Kosher salt).
Martini (Classic)
- 1 1/2 ounces gin
- 1/2 ounce dry vermouth
Stir with cubed ice, strain into chilled cocktail glass.
Mint
Julep
- 4 ounces bourbon
- 6 sprigs of mint
- 2 tablespoons simple syrup
Mix 4 ounces bourbon, 6 sprigs of mint, and 2 tablespoons simple syrup in a pint glass. Add three pieces of ice and muddle for about a minute. Let stand for several minutes. Strain into a glass filled with shaved ice. For guests who particularly like mint, remove the three pieces of ice, leave the mint, and pour all ingredients into the glass followed by fresh ice. Top with soda water and a sprig of mint.
Mojito
- 2-3 ounces light rum
- 1 ounce lime
- 2 teaspoons sugar
- Mint
Fill with ice and soda water Place sugar, a large pinch (small handful) of mint, and splash of soda water in a pint glass. Use muddler to lightly press mint and dissolve sugar until it smells of spearmint gum. Squeeze both halves of lime into the glass, leaving one hull in the mixture. Add rum, stir, and fill with ice. Top with soda water, garnish with mint sprig and serve.
Old Fashioned
"Old Waldorf Bar Days" (1931) by Albert Stevens Crockett:
"This was brought to the old Waldorf in the days of its "sit-down" Bar, and introduced by, or in honor of, Col. James E. Pepper, of Kentucky, proprietor of a celebrated whiskey of the period. The Old-fashioned Whiskey cocktail was said to have been the invention of a bartender at the famous Pendennis Club in Louisville, of which Col. Pepper was a member."
- 1/2 orange slice
- 1 cube sugar
- 2 dashes Angostura bitters
- 2 ounces rye or bourbon whiskey
Muddle orange, sugar, bitters together until the sugar is mostly dissolved. Fill glass with ice, then add the whiskey. Garnish with a marachino cherry, and perhaps an additional orange slice. Serve with a swizzle stick and/or straw.
Rickey's
- 1 1/2 ounces gin
- 1/2 ounce lime juice
- 1 tablespoon sugar
Shake with cracked ice; strain into ice filled tumbler; top with soda. Variation: Substitute rum, vodka, brandy, or whiskey for gin.
Rusty Nail
- 1 1/2 ounces scotch
- 1/2 ounce Drambuie
Stir ingredients with cracked ice in a shaker and pour into a chilled tumbler filled with ice.
Sidecar
According to Colin Fields, the head bartender at the Bar Hemmingway at the Ritz Hotel in Paris, the Sidecar was developed during WWI, when a certain regular cusomer arrived at the Ritz on his motorcycle (replete with sidecar), and asked the bartender for a cocktail that would help take off the chill. The bartender was caught in a dilemna, a drink to remove a chill would appropriatly be brandy, but brandy was traditionally an after dinner drink, and his patron was wanting something before dinner. So he combined cognac, cointreau, and lemon juice to mix a cocktail whos focus was on the warming qualities of both the brandy, and the cointreau, while the lemon juice added enough of a tartness to make it appropriate as a pre-dinner cocktail.
- 2 ounces Brandy (cognac)
- 1 ounce Cointreau
- 1/2 ounce lemon juice
Shake with ice. Strain into frosted cocktail glass and serve.